Lawn Turf Supplies for 30 Years

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Looking After Your Lawn

The first two to three weeks are the "critical phase" in the establishment of a new lawn from lawnturf.

Rule No 1 - Access

Do not be tempted to walk on the lawnturf without placing boards or planks on the surface beforehand, otherwise you will be creating depressions in the lawn. Once you have finished accessing the lawn, remove the boards.

Keep pets off the lawn and ensure that they perform their daily ritual on another part of the garden.

Rule No 2 - Moisture

Whilst the lawn was growing on the lawnturf farms, its roots were deep into the soil (as much as 3 feet deep) and could easily find sufficient moisture. To enable the grass plants to survive and to grow a new root system, it is essential to keep the soil on the back of the lawnturf and the root zone below it sufficiently moist for the whole period of establishment (up to 4 weeks).

To enable you to apply sufficient water to your lawnturf, the appropriate equipment will be needed. Anything less than a hosepipe is inadequate for the water volumes required and an oscillating sprinkler attached to the end would make the job easier and would apply the water more evenly.

The first application of water is the most important and uses the greatest quantity of water. A good soaking requires at least 1 inch (25mm).

Daily top-up waterings will generally require lesser amounts to be applied but a great deal depends on levels of evaporation due to temperature and wind. If it rains during the establishment phase then some reduction in the water applied can be made, but only if the rainfall is lengthy and persistent. Short showers may seem sufficient, but a lot of this rainfall does not penetrate and just runs off the surface. A simple test to see if plenty of water has been applied is to push a long screwdriver into the lawn. If it penetrates easily and deeply (9") then probably sufficient water has been applied.

During late spring and in summer it is best to water the lawnturf when the air temperature is cooler - early morning or late evening. During cooler seasons water at any time convenient to you.

The grass leaves will continue to grow once the lawnturf has been laid, despite the fact that there is very little root to supply water and nutrients. This growth will contribute to the loss of water from the lawnturf surface and to the depletion of nutrients from the it. Generally it is not good practice to let the grass get too long as this leads to weak growth which in turn invites attack by fungal diseases and allows weeds to establish.

Rule No 3 - Mowing Heights

The old adage - a little and often - can be applied to grass mowing. The more you mow the more individual grass leaves will grow and therefore your lawn will have a denser sward and conversely, the more infrequently you mow the thinner the sward and the more mossy, disease ridden and weedy it will become. The best type of lawn mower for the very first mowing is a sharp bladed rotary mower. These types of lawn mower perform well when the grass is a bit longer - the situation we have when the first mowing is needed. Obviously you cannot mow the lawn if the turves have not rooted sufficiently to be held in place, otherwise the lawnturf may be sucked up and chopped up by the lawn mower.

Make sure that the blades of the lawn mower are as sharp as possible, otherwise you will either tear up the lawnturf or pull the grass out by its' roots.
Adjust the height of cut. The rule of thumb is to never remove more than 1/3rd of the grass blade length at one time. Measure the average grass blade length and set cutting height accordingly.

Once the lawn has received its' first cut, then the next mowing and subsequent mowings will be needed in rapid succession. Keep the height of cut at 33mm for about two weeks, this will help to establish a good root system. After this period, you can safely lower the mowing height by a notch to around 1" (25mm).

During long periods without rainfall, it is a good idea to raise the height of cut and allow the grass to grow a little longer and when the conditions are moist and growth is fast, you can afford to mow at or near the minimum height of cut. During autumn and early winter, if conditions are mild and the grass is still growing, it will be necessary to keep topping the grass until growth ceases, but at a height of 1 ¼" (33mm).

Generally try to mow the lawn when grass blades are dry, this way less leaf drops into sward. Do not mow if the lawn is waterlogged or frosted, both conditions will damage the soil or grass.

Rule No 4 - Feed and weed at the correct times

Never apply Granular Spring and Summer lawn fertilisers after July as this can lead to soft, lush growth in the autumn which is when fungal diseases are most prevalent.

Always apply lawn fertilisers according to the manufacturers directions and always use a fertiliser spreader as hand spreading is very uneven and will invariably cause scorching of the lawn or uneven colour and growth.

Your lawnturf will arrive free of broad-leaved weeds, but due to the natural seed dispersion methods adopted by weeds, you will inevitably find the odd weed establishing itself. For all but the largest of lawns the easiest and most friendly way of weed eradication is to dig them out as they appear. If this is not possible then the use of a granular combined weedkiller and spring fertiliser can easily be applied through a fertiliser spreader. The ideal month for this treatment is May.

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